Most people think about fit, colour, and feel when buying clothing. Few think about what's actually in the fabric. From the field to your wardrobe, textiles go through a significant chemical journey — and as a consumer, it's worth knowing what that means.
From Raw Fibre to Finished Garment
Before a piece of clothing reaches you, it passes through multiple processing stages, each involving chemical treatments:
- Scouring & Bleaching — Raw fibres are cleaned and whitened using alkaline solutions and hydrogen peroxide or chlorine-based bleaches.
- Dyeing — Synthetic dyes (azo dyes, reactive dyes, disperse dyes) are used to achieve colour. Some azo dyes can break down into carcinogenic aromatic amines.
- Finishing Treatments — Fabrics are treated for softness, wrinkle resistance, shrink resistance, and moisture wicking. Common agents include formaldehyde resins, silicones, and fluorochemicals (PFAS).
The PFAS Problem
PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances) — often called "forever chemicals" — are widely used in water-repellent and stain-resistant finishes. They don't break down in the environment or the human body, and have been linked to hormonal disruption and other health concerns. Regulatory pressure is increasing globally, and many premium brands are actively phasing them out.
What About Heavyweight Fabrics?
Heavier cotton and cotton-blend fabrics — like those used in quality streetwear — typically undergo less aggressive finishing than synthetic performance fabrics. However, they're not exempt: ring-spun and combed cotton still goes through bleaching and dyeing, and pre-shrunk treatments often involve heat and chemical processes.
The good news? Higher GSM fabrics with minimal synthetic blends tend to carry fewer residual chemical loads, especially when sourced from certified mills.
Certifications to Look For
If chemical transparency matters to you, these certifications are worth knowing:
- OEKO-TEX Standard 100 — Tests for harmful substances across the entire production chain.
- GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) — Covers organic fibre sourcing and restricts chemical use throughout processing.
- bluesign® — Focuses on responsible resource use and chemical management in manufacturing.
The Takeaway
Clothing isn't just fabric — it's chemistry. Understanding what goes into your garments helps you make more informed choices, whether you're prioritising health, sustainability, or simply quality. At Done State, we believe in building pieces that last — and that starts with knowing exactly what we're working with.